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Anaga Rural Park Canary Islands
Anaga Rural Park is a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve in northeastern Tenerife, Canary Islands, spanning roughly 14,500 hectares of ancient laurel forests, sharp volcanic ridges, and black-sand coves.
It delivers some of the island’s most rewarding day hikes, endemic wildlife, and coastal viewpoints, all about 30 minutes from Tenerife North Airport.
I still remember the first time Chidi from our Abuja team stepped out of the car at Cruz del Carmen and the air switched from dry coastal heat to cool, misty forest in seconds.
He’d come for one hike; he ended up staying three days. This guide is built from that kind of firsthand exploring: what to see, how to get around without a headache, and where to find those moments that don’t make it onto postcards.
Jump to: Getting there | Best hikes | Wildlife & viewpoints | When to visit | Where to stay | Packing | Avoid these mistakes | One-day plan | FAQs
Key takeaways
- Anaga Rural Park is a free-entry UNESCO Biosphere Reserve with trails for all fitness levels, no entrance gate required.
- Microclimates here are extreme: you can start a hike in sun and end in thick fog, all in the same morning.
- Renting a car gives you maximum flexibility, but public buses from La Laguna serve the park’s main villages reliably.
- The Sendero de los Sentidos and the trail to Roque de Taborno are the two most popular (for good reason), while the Pijaral route to Benijo is the epic coastline trek.
- Overnight camping is prohibited in most of the park unless you secure a permit from the Cabildo de Tenerife.
- Pack waterproof layers even on a July day: the laurel forest generates its own mist and can soak you in minutes.
- Some protected trails now require a free online reservation, so always check the official park website before heading out.
Where exactly is Anaga Rural Park and how do I get there?
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The park occupies the entire northeastern tip of Tenerife, forming the rugged Macizo de Anaga massif. Its boundaries stretch from the outskirts of San Cristóbal de La Laguna, a UNESCO World Heritage city, down to the wild Atlantic coast between Almáciga and Benijo. The visitor center at Cruz del Carmen is the usual starting point, sitting about 15 kilometers from La Laguna.
I always recommend landing at Tenerife North Airport (TFN) rather than the southern Reina SofÃa (TFS) if Anaga is your priority. From TFN, it is a 25-minute drive to the park’s edge. The southern airport adds an extra hour on the TF-1 motorway, and traffic through Santa Cruz can eat into your hiking time.
Self-drive (easiest)
- Pick up a rental at TFN and take the TF-12 up to Cruz del Carmen.
- Parking at trailheads is limited, especially on weekends: arrive before 9:30 am.
- Use Kayak to compare car hire rates across providers.
Public bus (cheapest)
- Titsa lines 076, 077, and 273 connect La Laguna with Taganana, Chamorga, and Las Montañas.
- Buses run on a sparse schedule; check return times or you might end up hitchhiking.
- Single fares rarely exceed €3, but exact change is appreciated by drivers.
Chidi’s honest take: “I used the bus on my first visit and missed the last return. A local farmer gave me a lift to La Laguna in his pickup truck. Now I always book a car unless I plan to overnight in Taganana.”
Guided minivan day trips also depart from Santa Cruz and Puerto de la Cruz. If you prefer letting someone else navigate the hairpin bends, browse options on GetYourGuide; many include a forest walk, a cheese tasting, and a coastal swim.
What are the best hikes in Anaga Rural Park?
Anaga’s trail network spans over 600 kilometers of signposted paths, from wheelchair-accessible boardwalks to exposed coastal scrambles. The three tiers below cover the standout routes our team has tested. Distances are round-trip unless noted.
Easy trails
Sendero de los Sentidos (PR-TF 10) – 1.5 km loop, partly wheelchair friendly. This path threads through the laurel forest at Cruz del Carmen with interpretive panels on touch, smell and sound. Ideal for families and anyone short on time.
Mirador de Aguaide loop—a flat 2 km stroll from the Chamorga village to a clifftop balcony overlooking the sea. You might spot the Roque de Dentro monolith without climbing a single step.
Worth considering
- Forest bathing walk at Las Carboneras – an unmarked but obvious forest track that locals use for mushroom foraging in autumn.
Moderate trails
Roque de Taborno (PR-TF 6.1)—6 km loop with 350 meters of elevation. The “Matterhorn of Anaga” is a blade of rock you can circle on a path that delivers unreal ridge-walking and views of the entire northern coast. Chidi calls it the ultimate Tinder profile backdrop.
El Pijaral to Benijo (PR-TF 4) – 7.5 km point-to-point descending through a dense, fern-choked reserve. This trail now requires a free permit obtained from the Cabildo’s online reservation system, so do not show up without one.
Worth considering
- Chamorga to Faro de Anaga – a 9 km out-and-back to a lonely lighthouse, with spectacular cliff drops but very little shade. Carry two liters of water.
Challenging trails
GR 131 Anaga section (Chamorga to Cruz del Carmen)—23 km with over 1,200 meters of cumulative ascent. This traverse takes 8 to 10 hours and passes through every vegetation zone from coastal scrub to cloud forest. Not for the unprepared, but arguably the single best day walk on the island.
Worth considering
- Benijo to El Draguillo – a short but steep coastal route with a raw, wave-bashed trail. Only attempt at low tide.
For each of these, a detailed route description is available on the official Tenerife hiking portal. I also recommend downloading an offline map on apps like Maps. me, because mobile data vanishes in the deeper valleys.
What wildlife can I see and where are the best viewpoints?
Anaga’s laurel forest is a relic from the Tertiary era, dripping with moss and home to over 100 endemic plant species. On a quiet morning, you can hear the low cooing of Bolle’s and laurel pigeons, two species found nowhere else on Earth. Fatima, our Lagos correspondent, once stood still for 20 minutes on the Roque de Taborno loop and watched a pair feed on tree heather berries right above her head.
Reptile lovers should keep an eye out for the Tenerife wall gecko and the striking West Canary lizard that skitter across sun-warmed rocks near the coast. Picking any plant or disturbing wildlife can land you a fine of up to €600, as set by the island council’s environment department.
Viewpoints: forest and ridge
- Mirador Cruz del Carmen – the classic first stop, with an orientation panel and a cafe that sells decent barraquito coffee.
- Mirador de Jardina – often empty, it peers down into the green veins of the Valle Brosque. Great for a 10-minute meditation stop.
Viewpoints: coastal
- Mirador de Aguaide – a vertiginous balcony above a 400-meter drop, with the whole northeastern coastline stretching to the horizon.
- Playa de Benijo at sunset—not a viewpoint in the traditional sense, but sitting on the black sand while the Roques de Anaga turn gold is a ritual I repeat every trip.
If marine life is on your list, small dolphins and pilot whales are sometimes visible from the clifftops near the Faro de Anaga. Bring binoculars and a bit of patience.
When is the best time to visit Anaga Rural Park?
I have hiked Anaga in every month, and the honest answer is that each season delivers something different. Spring (March to May) gives you lush greenery, wildflowers on the coastal slopes, and comfortable hiking temperatures around 20 to 24°C. Autumn (October to November) often brings the clearest skies after the summer calima haze settles.
Summer is perfectly doable, but the northern coast’s microclimate means fog can roll in by midday, burying the trails in damp mist. The benefit? Far fewer people on the popular paths. Winter months see the heaviest rainfall and occasional trail washouts; as of early this year, a short section of the Pijaral path was temporarily closed for drainage repairs, so always verify on the Cabildo’s site.
Weekends and public holidays squeeze the parking areas at Cruz del Carmen and Taborno. If you only have a Sunday available, start your hike by 8 am to claim a spot and enjoy the forest in silence.
Where should I stay near Anaga Rural Park?
Many visitors day-trip from Santa Cruz or Puerto de la Cruz, but overnighting inside or near the park unlocks dawn hikes and empty sunset beaches. The best options divide into two camps.
Rural immersion
Traditional Canarian casitas in Taganana, Almáciga, and Chamorga put you a stone’s throw from the trails. These are often listed on Vrbo and come with full kitchens and rooftop terraces. Book months ahead for peak spring weeks. Chidi once rented a restored watermill in Las Montañas and woke up to a cloud inversion that filled the valley like a white blanket.
City convenience
La Laguna’s historic center offers boutique hotels and guesthouses within a 20-minute drive of the park. Use Booking.com to filter properties with parking. Santa Cruz, though larger, adds 10 extra minutes on the TF-5 but gives you more dining and nightlife choices. If you collect loyalty nights, Hotels.com often has options there with free cancellation.
Wild camping is not allowed in the park unless you have a specific research or event permit from the Tenerife Cabildo. Fines for unauthorized camping start around €300.
What should I pack for a day in Anaga Rural Park?
Non-negotiables
A lightweight, waterproof jacket even if the coastal forecast promises sunshine. The laurel forest generates its own moisture, and you can go from dry to soaked in the time it takes to lace your boots. Sturdy shoes with good grip are essential: volcanic gravel on steep paths is slippery, and trail runners have become my personal preference for the ridge routes.
Sun and hydration
The eastern cliffs of the park have zero shade after mid-morning. Carry at least 1.5 liters of water per person, a wide-brimmed hat, and sunscreen that won’t sweat off. Chidi learned this the hard way on the Faro de Anaga hike and still calls it “the day I became a leather handbag.”
Navigation and snacks
Mobile signal is patchy to non-existent once you drop into the barrancos. Download offline maps and carry a small power bank. A picnic of local goat cheese, papas arrugadas, and a cold Alhambra beer from a La Laguna supermarket makes the summit stops taste earned. Bin bags are scarce on the trail, so pack out what you pack in.
What mistakes do first-time visitors make in Anaga Rural Park?
We have seen enough soggy, sunburned hikers to compile this list. Sidestep these and your day will be infinitely smoother.
- Trusting the coastline weather report. The park has at least three microclimates. Check the forecast for the specific trailhead, not just Santa Cruz.
- Ignoring trail permits. The Pijaral reserve and some other protected zones require a free online permit. No permit, no entry; rangers do check.
- Wearing sandals or flip-flops. Even the “easy” boardwalk trails have uneven surfaces beyond the paved section. One turned ankle can end your trip.
- Parking in villages without permission. Taganana and Taborno have very limited parking. Illegally parked cars are regularly towed or fined.
- Swimming at unguarded beaches without checking currents. Playa de Benijo and Playa del Roque de las Bodegas have powerful rips. Look for the green flag or ask a local before entering the water.
- Assuming you will find a shop or restaurant on the trail. Outside the Cruz del Carmen cafe and a couple of village bars, there are zero facilities. Pack all your food.
- Relying on Google Maps alone for trail navigation. Offline hiking apps with contour lines are far more reliable when the GPS signal weakens in deep ravines.
For official trail status updates, the Cabildo de Tenerife website is the definitive source. I always check it the evening before a hike.
How can I make the most of one day in Anaga Rural Park?
This is the exact loop I have recommended to at least a dozen friends, and none of them came back disappointed. It packs a forest, a ridge, a village lunch, and a coastal sunset into a single, well-paced day.
Morning: Laurel forest immersion
Arrive at Cruz del Carmen by 8:30 am. Walk the Sendero de los Sentidos first to wake up your senses, then continue on the wider track that leads to the Mirador de Llano de los Loros. The morning light slanting through the mossy branches is pure magic. Back at the car, drive 15 minutes to the Taborno trailhead.
Midday: Ridge walk and village lunch
Tackle the Roque de Taborno loop. The entire circuit takes around two and a half hours at a steady pace. After the hike, drive down to the village of Taganana and grab a table at Casa Africa or a similar family-run restaurant. The grilled vieja (parrotfish) with mojo sauce is the dish I dream about between visits.
Afternoon: Black sand and sunset
Post-lunch, head to Playa de Benijo. The road beyond Taganana narrows sharply, so go slow. Spend the late afternoon relaxing on the volcanic sand, then climb back up to the mirador above the beach for a front-row seat as the sun drops behind the Roques de Anaga. The sky here turns fierce orange and purple; you will fill your camera roll.
If you want to extend this into a multi-day adventure, our Tenerife first-timer’s guide offers a full seven-day itinerary that weaves in Teide National Park and the south coast.
Frequently asked questions
Do I need a permit to hike in Anaga Rural Park?
Most trails are open without a permit. However, the Integral Natural Reserve of El Pijaral (accessed via the PR-TF 4) now requires a free online reservation due to its fragile ecosystem. Always verify on the Cabildo de Tenerife’s environment portal before heading out.
Is Anaga Rural Park suitable for children?
Yes, the Sendero de los Sentidos has a partly accessible boardwalk perfect for little legs. Older kids who enjoy scrambling will love the Roque de Taborno loop. Avoid exposed coastal paths with toddlers, as guardrails are rare.
Can I swim at the beaches in Anaga?
Playa de Benijo and Playa de Almáciga are popular for swimming, but strong currents and sudden swells are common. Only enter when a green flag is displayed, and never swim alone. The water remains cool even in summer.
Are there restaurants inside the park?
The visitor center at Cruz del Carmen has a cafe with drinks and light snacks. Villages like Taganana, Almáciga, and Benijo host small, family-run eateries serving fresh seafood and Canarian classics. On the trail, there are no food vendors, so carry your own supplies.
Is there mobile reception in Anaga Rural Park?
Reception is reliable at Cruz del Carmen and in the coastal villages. Once you descend into deep ravines or forested sections, the signal disappears entirely. Download offline maps before you leave Wi-Fi.
What is the difference between Anaga Rural Park and Teide National Park?
Anaga is a green, mist-shrouded mountain range of ancient forest and deep valleys, while Teide is a high-altitude volcanic landscape dominated by Spain’s tallest peak. Anaga offers a more intimate, jungle-like hiking experience, while Teide feels lunar and otherworldly.
Can I drive to the Roque de Taborno trailhead?
Yes, the small car park at Taborno fills up very early, especially on weekends. If it is full, do not park on the narrow access road; instead return later or park in the lower village of Las Canteras and walk up.
Plan your trip: booking platforms we trust
Our team uses these services because they consistently offer transparent pricing, real guest reviews, and flexible cancellation. Below is where we start our research every time.